Summer means tomato season in the Hudson Valley. Large, juicy tomatoes are popping up at every farmer’s market, and when they’re picked at the peak of freshness, they’re perfect to eat with nothing more than a sprinkle of salt.

A wide variety of tomatoes are grown in the Hudson Valley, from heirlooms that have thrived here for generations to Canestrino tomatoes, whose seeds come from Tuscany and first arrived here 20 years ago. If you’re looking for that perfect summer tomato, the Hudson Valley is the right place to be.

One of my favorite ways to use tomatoes in the summer is to make a panzanella salad, or as we called it growing up, stale bread salad. A classic panzanella salad is made with large chunks of bread, juicy tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, and basil, all tossed together with olive oil and vinegar. In my mind it’s the quintessential summer salad, the perfect dish to eat on a hot afternoon.

But in fact, the original version of the panzanella salad did not contain tomatoes at all! Panzanella dates back to at least the 14th century, and was a way for farmers and poor Italians to use up stale bread and whatever vegetables they had on hand. It’s an example of cucina povera, the peasant food that was prominent in Italy and that did not let anything go to waste.

In addition to stale bread, original panzanella salad was likely made with onions and other vegetables, as tomatoes did not arrive in Italy until the 16th century. Even though they’re synonymous with Italian cooking today, tomatoes were originally thought to be poisonous in Italy and it took a couple hundred years before they got popular.

Since panzanella salad has already taken many forms throughout culinary history, there’s no reason we can’t mix it up further! For my new cookbook, Italianish, I came up with a recipe that merges together a panzanella salad with another summer favorite: a classic Italian sub. We keep the big chunks of bread and juicy tomatoes, but add in provolone, olives, banana peppers, and three types of meat.

The result is a hearty salad that’s perfect for a summer barbecue or a family dinner out on the deck. You don’t need to wait for your bread to get stale either; find a loaf at your favorite bakery, cut it into pieces, drizzle it with olive oil, and throw it in the oven. You’ll end up with dry bread that has a bit of a crunch but is also perfect for sopping up tomato juice and balsamic vinaigrette. It’s also great for making ahead, as the flavors continue to develop as the salad marinates in the fridge.

Italian Sub Panzanella Salad

Ingredients

1 small (about ¾ pound) loaf of Italian bread or similar, roughly cut or torn into 1-inch pieces
3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
1 lb. fresh tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
12 oz. provolone, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 6-oz. can black olives, drained
3 oz. deli ham, cut into thin strips
3 oz. deli pepperoni, cut into thin strips
3 oz. deli salami, cut into thin strips
½ cup sliced banana peppers
½ small head iceberg lettuce, sliced
½ medium red onion, sliced
1 tsp dried oregano
freshly-cracked black pepper, to taste

For the Dressing
¼ c. balsamic vinegar
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp honey
½ tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp freshly-cracked black pepper
½ c. extra virgin olive oil

Recipe

1. Preheat your oven to 350°F. Place the bread on a baking sheet and toss with the olive oil and 1 tsp. salt until pieces are all lightly coated. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the bread is dry and starting to turn golden brown.
2. Meanwhile, put the tomatoes in a colander and toss with the remaining 1 tsp. salt. Place the colander over a bowl and let the tomatoes rest for about 10 minutes. The salt will draw out moisture from the tomatoes, deepening their flavor, and the juice will drip into the bowl. Reserve the juice.
3. Combine the bread, tomatoes, provolone, olives, ham, pepperoni, salami, peppers, lettuce, and onion in a large bowl. 
4. Make the dressing by combining the vinegar, garlic, mustard, honey, salt, and pepper in a food processor or liquid measuring cup. Slowly add in the olive oil while running the food processor or whisking until you form a thick, smooth dressing. Pour the dressing over the salad along with the tomato juice, oregano, and a pinch of salt and pepper and toss the ingredients until they are well coated with dressing.
5. The salad can be eaten right way, but the flavors will continue to develop as the components soak up the liquid. Ideally, refrigerate at least 30 minutes before serving.

Danny Freeman is a cookbook author and upstate native. He has been seen on “The Kelly Clarkson Show,” “The Rachael Ray Show,” and “Good Morning America,” and his cooking has been featured in the New York Times, the Washington Post, and People. He’s written cookbooks Danny Loves Pasta and Italianish, and he lives in Beacon with his husband and two kids.