You might know mole as a dark brown chile-based chocolate sauce, but that is just one of many variations. Mole is a thick sauce with pre-Hispanic origins, made with a diverse variety of chiles, tomatoes, and seeds. The Mexicans would prepare pumpkin seed-based sauces to serve over fish, wild game, and vegetables. In the colonial cuisine of the 17th century, aromatic herbs and spices were added to it.
There are many regional variations, like this pipián verde (pumpkin seed mole), a green mole with earthy, herbal, and spicy notes inspired by the state of Puebla. It is traditionally served over chicken or fish, but it also makes an incredible dipping sauce for the late-summer vegetables of the Hudson Valley. Simply grill summer squash, corn, asparagus, sweet peppers, and broccolini, and serve with the pipián verde on the side.
Pipián Verde
For the sauce:
- 1 1/2 cups hulled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
- 1/2 cup sesame seeds
- 4 tsp. avocado oil, divided
- 1/2 large white onion, sliced (about 1 cup)
- 2-3 serrano chiles, stems removed, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 8 medium tomatillos, husks removed, cut into quarters
- 1 large fresh or dried hoja santa leaf or 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil and fennel leaves
- 1 cup packed spinach
- 1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro
- 2 epazote sprigs, or 1 tablespoon dried epazote
- 1 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- 2 cups vegetable broth
For the accompaniments:
- 1 cup cremini mushrooms, stems removed
- 1 yellow squash, cut into 1/2-inch slices
- 1 large zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch slices
- 7 baby bell peppers
- 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed
- 2 Mexican green onions
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 tsp. salt
- 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
To make the sauce, heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast, stirring often, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the seeds begin to pop and become brown in spots. Remove from the heat, reserve 1 tablespoon, and transfer the rest to a blender.
In the same skillet, toast the sesame seeds over medium heat, stirring often, for 2 to 3 minutes, until they begin to pop and are golden brown. If your sesame seeds are bouncing out of your skillet before they are golden brown, sprinkle some water on them and continue toasting. Transfer to the blender.
Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and serranos and cook until they begin to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the tomatillos and cook until they soften and begins to brown, 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer to the blender.
Add the hoja santa, spinach, cilantro, epazote, salt, pepper, and vegetable broth to the blender and puree until smooth.
Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil in the same large skillet over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and pour in sauce, while stirring, taking care as it may splash, and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the sauce thickens slightly.
Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.
Brush the vegetables with the olive oil and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Working in batches, grill the vegetables until tender and charred in spots, 7 to 8 minutes for the mushrooms, 5 to 6 minutes for the yellow squash, zucchini, and bell peppers, and 3 to 4 minutes for the asparagus and green onions. Transfer all the grilled vegetables to a platter and serve with the green pipián on the side, topped with the reserved pumpkin seeds.
Store the sauce in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months. The grilled vegetables can be stored an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days.
